Down Time

At the end of April I stopped training.... 

 

All the training that I do at the climbing wall has been exchanged for swimming endless lengths in a swimming pool. I am definitely getting better at this as when I started I could barely do 2 lengths but now I can do around 15 without stopping. I’m pretty pleased as I dreaded the swimming, but I actually quite like it now – sauna! ;)

At the end of team training in April, my parents and I had to stay behind. We thought it would just be a few words about the European selections and my injuries. It would be more serious though, which we realised watching Tom drag chairs into the Climbing Works office where our meeting with the GB Junior Bouldering Team management would take place.

We waited outside the office for a long time while they discussed whatever it was – this was not going to be good news. Dad said it felt like waiting outside the headmaster’s office. When they called us in they broke the terrible news. They were not going to put me into any international competitions this year!

I was devastated.  At the end of last year I went to my first European comp, the European Championships at Arco in Italy, and came home with a bronze medal.  This year I was looking forward to going to Arco again, this time to the World Championships and hoping I would be lucky and make the podium again.  Not going to happen......

They recommended I didn’t climb for at least two months and then only after further assessment making sure I was all clear of injuries and not at risk of hurting myself doing other sports. It is part of a plan for injury prevention, putting in a roadblock to stop me damaging myself further; as I have had a trail of injuries and am about to hit a growth spurt.

The GB team have done a lot by giving me guidance what to do, and how to become more rounded as an athlete. Although annoying, I think it is a good thing for my career in the long run as much pain from long term injuries has subsided.  This was about a 6/10 with my golfers elbow (climbers elbow as it is very common in the sport) but has gone down to about 2/10 on the pain scale. It has given me an insight on when to train and when not to, but I guess that’s the optimistic point of view. I am probably going to have to deal with injuries throughout my career.

At first, I wondered what I was going to do, no climbing! Also no sports that include any impact, like running - which is pretty much most sports. In the past I broke a finger so it was no climbing for a year - but I could at least do other sports. Although two months doesn’t sound like much, it has given me great insight into sports as a whole.

It just hits you sometimes when you see how much you need your body to function correctly, as I have found, we put strain on it nearly every day. Running somewhere to not be late: the hustle and bustle in the lunch queue. I have had so many niggles lately so I am just grateful that I have laid back on the training, having a break, as I could have done serious damage, imo.

The first 2 weeks it was strange (I am only getting used to it at the time of writing this) I started to notice a lot of twinges even without doing anything, I’m just imagining what catastrophe would have happened if I had carried on at the same intense level of training. 

It has got better though, I started having more time to do other things. I have read Ready to Run by Dr. Kelly Starrett and T.J. Murphy and that has given me some inspiration, not to see injuries as curses and just to live with them, but see them as ways your performance can improve.

From now on I will take injuries more seriously and consider injury prevention just as important as keeping fit. The two months have been tough, because of the change from climbing to swimming. But I have come out with an improved mindset.

You should never see injury prevention as a curse. Don’t think of the work you need to do as a chore, or you will never put in the effort. Change your mind set.  Having fewer injuries can only improve your performance. You will be aware that you are less likely to get hurt, which will give you a mental edge. Most importantly, if you don’t get injured, your training will count for more.

Still can’t wait to start climbing again though.........

Review of My First Year in the Junior British Bouldering Team Part II

September Arco – European Championship

My experience started long before getting on the plane. My parents really helped me to get set for the trip. Truthfully I thought I would be ok with it but I was so scared. Even though this was my first international comp, so there was no real pressure on me, I put pressure on myself as it was the last one of the year; this was my only chance to prove I could compete internationally.

Mum and Dad drove me to Stanstead Airport in about 2 hours. Everything seemed normal (the same feeling as you go on a school trip) but at the same time, in the back of my mind, the thought of being away worried me.  Arriving and seeing my friends and the team made me feel less nervous about the trip, at least everyone else was in the same position. 

Then the problems started. Our luggage hadn’t been booked in because our plane tickets had been booked late. This put us behind schedule (am I really late for everything?) so we ended up running for the plane. There were masses of people travelling as it was holiday season, I guess, and we were last but we got there in the end.

The plane journey went smoothly and we arrived at midday. Next we hired people carriers for our journey through the winding Italian cliffs. Some of us took a nap (George) and we stopped at a petrol station for dinner.  I ordered a classic Italian sandwich which was in a Baguette. They have better petrol station food than any other country.

Our second day in Italy started with a lie in and a breakfast buffet. The town really was picturesque; it looked better than the postcards, and the coolest thing was the mountain fortress, which we could see from our room. After taking a quick tour, it was a 20 min drive to Lake Garda, we stuffed ourselves with the finest pizzas.

I was rich!  In charge of my own money and went on a spending spree in an Italian supermarket.  What could go wrong?  After buying twice as much as I needed, I was all set for the competition the next day. 

What’s really cool is climbing in Italy is like football in Britain, it’s very popular. We actually got discounts on our ice creams as the people serving us were climbers. So we had two each!

Tom (the team manager) said there was a parade and I thought it was a joke until all the competitors started lining up in their countries, it turned out that they have a parade every year. It ended up being nearly a 2 mile trek. It was raining but it was 28 degrees outside, the temperature of British summer, so I wasn’t too bothered by it.

The next day were the qualifiers and we all met again at the same table with the same food, loads of sugar sprinkled croissants.  I was the most nervous out of our age group, youth B. I had no idea what it would be like, although we had practised competitions back in Britain and had a prep talk from Tom (team manager) the night before, nothing can really prepare you other than experiencing it yourself. 

The warm up area was packed and there was not much room to warm up. It was a little bit hectic. When the timer started nobody moved, there was no mad rush and it was very laid back. But inside you are very tense wanting to perform at to the best of your ability. I have to say there were 3 very hard climbs out of the 8 qualifiers, but they were all European standard hardness. I loved the problems and they were the perfect difficulty as I managed to do 7 and get to touch last hold of the 8^th. 

Although there were problems with the scores, my ultimate goal was to get to the final and I did it, qualifying in 6^th which meant I would be climbing first in the final. I was just relieved to have got there, in whatever position.  

The next day we were at the arena, ready for the final, in no time.  Breakfast went unusually fast, and I was warming up with Tom and Tim (team physio).  I can remember how the sunlight found its way through the branches of trees making patterns on the soil.  While yesterday it was bustling with competitors pushing each other to get onto the wall (one guy nearly took my head off with his shoe) now you could really see what it looked like. 

The competitors who had made it to the final were really welcoming and nice, they were all pros who knew each other and had been in finals before, competing in the cup circuit.  As we went out in a line to be introduced to the crowd, they called out my name first and I was out there on my own but quickly joined by the others. The theme music from Pirates of the Caribbean was playing which made me smile.

As soon as I went back into isolation, I was called out to try my first climb. The holds were bright green, some on black volumes.  There were a few volumes and I think I got the sequence wrong.  I was happy that I got the bonus hold on my first go.  It turned out that nobody else managed to complete it.  I thought to myself, “I really could have a shot at this!”

 

The second climb was red, a powerful overhang, starting with a dyno - a jump to the second hold.  The move was quite technical and I was doing it wrong.  I got the bonus hold on my 3^rd go but did not complete the climb - I ran out of time. I found out that all the other climbers had got the bonus 1^st go and two completed it. I thought to myself, “It does not matter where you come, just enjoy it.”

The last climb was on a slab and needed a lot of balancing. This kind of climb can make an experienced climber nervous as there is always a chance of slipping. I decided to just go for it, jumping to the bonus on one of my goes. (It was orange) I was not happy about how I had done on the climb; everybody else would finish it.

My climbs were over and I was able to sit in the audience with the rest of the British team. There were 5 competitors left to try the climb and a very long wait. Honestly I thought I was going to be 6^th so sat there waiting to be beaten. 

 It must have been because it was a slab climb, the others were taking it much more carefully but being in last place I had just gone for it.  As each climber failed to reach the bonus my ranking kept getting higher until I was in 3^rd place.  I couldn’t do any better as Dominik Haertl (Austria) and Matic Kotar (Slovakia) had such good scores. Matic took gold, Dom the silver and I got the bronze medal.  I definitely did the best I could and had a bit of luck, but am just happy to have had the experience.

I was very proud standing on the podium to receive my medal, but it felt a bit unreal, this was my first European comp and I was going home with a medal.  Unbelievable!

We celebrated by eating at our favourite restaurant and jumping in the outdoor pool, the only thing that would have been better is if we could have stayed longer but there was school to get back to. 

Thanks to Tom, Tim and the rest of the GB Team for their help and support.

Thanks to my sponsors:  Scarpa & Wild Country

& Wolf Mountain, Boulder Central, Redpoint & Creation Climbing Center where I climb regularly.

Review of My First Year in the Junior British Bouldering Team Part I

December 2013 I entered the BMC Open Youth Competitions, doing both the leading and bouldering comps. In the leading event I got 1^st place but only managed to scrape second place the bouldering.

The following week I was picked for both the GB Junior Lead Climbing Team and Bouldering Teams.  As a cross discipline athlete, I preferred bouldering as most of the competitions clashed.   

It was great as George Morris (also from Wolverhampton) and Jack Ramsden, who I knew from previous competitions, made the team. Also Tommy Mathews who I now know well after sharing a room at Arco.

In February team training was held in Sheffield where we did cross training and had a fitness assessment. It turned out I had problems with my shoulders and was given exercises to improve them. A second team training was held in Sheffield at the end of March.  On the Sunday we went to Stanage, it was my first time there and mum and dad got very lost trying to find it so I was late getting there. 

April saw the second round of the JBBC’s in Glasgow, and I got 1^st place. The next day was team training so we tried the older competitor’s problems.

The end of June was another team training and the assessment for 2^nd round of the Bouldering Youth Cup in Laengenfeld Austria.  I had a sprained ankle and so could not be picked.  Well done to George and Jack who went though.

July I went to London for the Youth Open.  First was the Leading Competition, where I came 2^nd.  Two days later was the Bouldering.  This was my assessment.  I had a chance to be picked for the last European comp of the year; it was also the most important since it was the European Championships.  It was a really interesting comp as I had to do a super final where you fight for 1^st place. It was me versus Cameron McLoughlin who had won the leading comp.  Luckily I did well and came 1^st.  As it was the 3^rd round of the Junior British Bouldering Competition and I had two 1^st and a 2^nd I became Youth B British Bouldering Champion.  I was also selected to climb at Arco in Italy at the European Youth Championships.

Part II to follow.......

Thanks to my sponsors:  Scarpa & Wild Country

& Wolf Mountain, Boulder Central, Redpoint & Creation Climbing Center where I climb regularly.

Taking Over

My Dad was doing this blog but hadn't kept it up to date so I've decided to take it over.

Dom

Midlands Bouldering League

Had a go at the 25 boulder problems at Wolf Mountain Friday night. It was good fun and Mark Croxall who had set the problems was still around and gave me lots of encouragement.  I managed to complete fifteen of them and earned a few bonus points too. 

Latest Update

It's so long since I updated this blog that I don't know where to start. So much has happened since the last post. Dom was British under 11 climbing champion in 2010. He was 4th in the under 14 category this year (despite being only 11) and has won the Midland Youth Climbing Series (MYCS) two years running.

So that's brought us up to date and I'm determined to keep on top in the future!

Catching Up

Oh dear. It's ages since I've posted to this blog so there's a bit of catching up to do.

Since July, Dom entered the Creation Bouldering Competition (under 16s) again and managed to come second to Orrin Coley. He's also gone climbing outside.

Check out
http://wolfmountainblog.blogspot.com/2009_08_01_archive.html

And here's a video of Dom climbing at Llanymynech.

The Midlands Youth Climbing Series has also started (MYClimbing Series) and the 1st leg took place at Creation on 11th October.

Dom and Alex Norton from Leicester both finished with perfect scores, completing all three routes and five boulder problems. Alex is a much improved climber since the BMCYCS earlier this year and is giving Dom some serious competition. Dom managed to win the Super Final climb-off and so took 1st place.